Kinsale is an intimate, picturesque village overlooking the estuary of the River Bandon. The Town nestles between the hills and the shoreline, a maze of narrow streets, never far from the water and little changed in many hundreds of years. Amongst buildings of later periods are those of another age with historical links to the French, Spanish, British and Americans. The Battle of Kinsale, fought in 1601 between a combined Spanish, an Irish force and English armies, was a turning point in Irish history. It was also off the coast of Kinsale that the Lusitania sunk in 1915, a great maritime disaster which claimed over 1,500 lives. Kinsale can easily claim its place amongst Ireland's most historic locations for this has been a centre of population, commerce, trade and fishing far beyond memory and record. In its earliest days the estuary of the Bandon River gave it great importance as the river is tidal as far as Innishannon and water transport was dominant until the 18th Century.
Kinsale is famous for many things, but the Battle of Kinsale in 1601 can truly be said to the most important event because of the tumultuous effect it had on Irish history that ripple right up to the present day.
It was the battle which changed the course of Irish history. The Irish forces were defeated, the nobility fled and the Plantations of Ulster followed, the repercussions of which are clear from Ireland's most recent bloody history. In previous months, troops from Spain led by Don Juan d'Aquila landed in Kinsale, despite Irish requests that they land further up the coast. They were surrounded by the crown forces led by Lord Mountjoy. D'Aquila had been promised horses and the support of the whole of Munster but very little of either materialized.
In the meantime, 'Red'Hugh O'Donnell, having summoned his troops and local chiefs to Ballymote in Sligo, embarked on a hard journey on foot across mountains and flooded land to Munster and into Innishannon where he met up with the forces of Hugh O'Neill, arriving in Kinsale in late December 1601.
Storms and torrential rain foiled Irish plans of a night time attack. A rare occurrence of St. Elmo's Fire, an electric storm, caused many of the horses in the Irish camp to bolt. O'Neill crossed difficult terrain with a force of 5,000 to attack the English camp, but they were ready for them, dispatching them in a bloody skirmish his troops panicked and many fled. O'Donnell's forces were similarly routed and they too gave up the ghost.
The Spanish surrendered soon after. The battle was over. In all, the English lost as many as 5000 men, mostly through starvation and disease, but their superior tactics won them a decisive victory.
The Kinsale Museum has many artifacts relating to the battle, including maps, a cannon and a belt worn by O'Neill.
The museum is in possession of a bewildering array of artifacts relating to the town's maritime history and dating from the earliest of times.
In the ground floor rooms, there is an interesting collection of shipwright, barrel, sail and rope makers' work, demonstrating the importance of Kinsale's ship-building industry. Many of the pieces were recovered from the harbour. At one point, Kinsale had three shipyards, and their capability was such, that in 1612 three of the largest ships in the world were produced there. The famous Dutch East India Company operated out of Kinsale, having its headquarters in nearby Innishannon.
Outside the building there are amongst other well preserved pieces, a davitt (crane) from the RMS Lusitania and also a broken anchor from the 1763 sinking of the ship 'La Trompeuse'.
On the 7th of May 1915, the Cunard liner RMS Lusitania was sunk off the Old Head of Kinsale on its way from New York to Liverpool. She was torpedoed by the German submarine U20, with the loss of 1,195 out of 1,959 passengers, some of whom are now buried at St. Multose Church in Kinsale. Carrying many important personages, including the wealthy American, Alfred Vanderbilt and the art collector, Hugh Lane, the sinking had the immediate effect of bringing America into WW1 and it is because of this that many conspiracy theories exist, not least that Winston Churchill, then Lord Admiral, had prior knowledge of the impending danger from U-boat attack and may have allowed her to be sacrificed for that very end. The Lusitania’s military cargo, a question which provokes heated debate even today, fuels the argument that, militarily speaking, the Germans may have had a right to sink her.
The inquest into her sinking was held three days after the disaster and its findings have been a matter of much controversy. Today, apart from the court itself, there are various artifacts from and relating to, the Lusitania including the famous Lusitania medallion.
The inquest into the Sinking of the Lusitania was held in the Courthouse on May the 10th.It was attended by, amongst others, the Coroner J.J. Horgan, the jury of 12 local fishermen and shopkeepers and Captain William Turner whose command of the ill-fated ship was severely criticized. It was claimed that all ships in the vicinity were aware of the threat of torpedoes and had received the message that:
"Between South Foreland and Folkestone keep within two miles of shore and pass between the two light vessels. Take Liverpool pilot at bar. Avoid headlands; pass harbours at full speed; steer mid-channel course. Submarines off Fastnet."
For whatever reason, Turner did not follow this direction. It was also discovered that the portholes of the ship had been left open at the time of impact and that this carelessness had caused the Lusitania to flood more quickly. It is widely believed that Captain Turner's hand in the matter was greatly exaggerated and that he may have been used as a scapegoat.
Irrespective of the controversy that surrounds the possible military aspect of the incident, the loss of so many lives, exceeded only by the sinking of the Titanic, was tragic and continue until this day, testified by the stream of visitors to the cemetery where many of the victims are buried .
Out and about in Kinsale
Now in its 14th Year, Herlihy's Guided Tours offers "Historic Stroll in Old Kinsale," is an informative 90 minute guided walking tours of Kinsale's major historic sites and attractions.
The Historic Stroll of Kinsale is led by Don Herlihy or Barry Maloney. Both have a wealth of information pertaining to this history-rich region. The presentation provides an engaging historical of the development of Kinsale from its Medieval town beginnings. Participants walk with Don or Barry, as they vividly unveils the strategic importance of Kinsale's perfect harbour and extraordinary fortifications following the New World discoveries.
Much of the tour explores events that occurred over 400 years ago, in the historic Battle of Kinsale in 1601, a pivotal event that changed the tide of history. Standing next to the harbour, the battle is vividly recounted. Wind, rock, and tide are the three pivotal characters in the saga, which shaped the history of Kinsale and Ireland as a nation today.
After the battle, Kinsale's gained enormous importance for the British, as a garrison town and a major port for international trade. The tour takes in these heady times, as Kinsale was the last port of call for so many sailors and explorers provisioning before setting sail to the new world, sailors who no doubt imbibed a couple pints and stumbled Kinsale's cobbled laneways. its easy to imagine, given many of the shop fronts remain largely unchanged to this day.
The Historic Stroll of Kinsale takes in the St. Multose Church, the oldest standing building in Kinsale, dating to the 12th century and one of the oldest churches in Ireland, with worship taking place for over 1,000 years. The tour also passes by historic Desmond Castle, which has filled various roles over the centuries.
The Historic Tour of Old Kinsale begins outside the Kinsale Tourist Information Office at 11.15 AM daily from Mar - Nov, with a second tour running 09.15 daily from May - Sep. Cost is €7 for adults and €1 for Children. Tours are available in English, French, and Italian.
Dining in Kinsale
Kinsale in modern times has long held the title of “Gourmet Capital of Ireland” The quaint town lends itself so well to an eating experience with its wonderful character buildings, pubs, restaurants and hotels. A whole variety of restaurants have sprung up in recent years to complement the long-standing establishments such as The Blue Haven, Actons, Man Friday, The White Lady and Jim Edwards. A vast cross-section of ethnic eateries are now available in the town and its environs. Fish, is of course, the most popular dish given the location of Kinsale.
The West Cork coast, with its many small harbours, is famous for fish and seafood, while the quality of the local meat, vegetables and dairy produce available is second to none. Kinsale chefs pride themselves on their reputation. When you have sampled the hospitality and food you will return time and time again.
The Kinsale Good Food Circle includes 12 Member Restaurants offering a diversity of cuisine with a guarantee of quality, service, comfort and ambience and of course, fine dining. The Good Food Circle organises a number of events and special offers throughout the year including the highlight of the year, the Kinsale Gourmet Festival in October. Kinsale Good Food Circle Vouchers can be purchased for use in any participating restaurant
The "Kinsale Gourmet Festival" is held in October of each year and is a celebration of all the culinary delights that Kinsale has to offer. Events include the Mad Hatters Taste of Kinsale, The New England Lobster Bake and a Newport Knees Up. As Kinsale is twinned with Newport, Rhode Island, each year there is a "Chef Swap" where the créme de la ceéme of Kinsale chefs exchange roles with their American counterparts
Things to do in Kinsale
Kinsale is a top class centre for sailing and watersports activity. There are three golf courses including the world-famous Old Head course. Field sports are well-represented with horse-riding, claybird shooting and archery all available close to the town. For those who prefer a more leisurely pace, how about a sauna in the leisure centre, a historical walking tour, a pottery lesson, or a tour by taxi? And afterwards, a meal in one of Kinsale's many pubs or restaurants?
Information from The Kinsale Chamber of Commerce is gratefully acknowledged.
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